Trip Report – Cnoc nan Uamh

The proposed GSG Skye trip had been cancelled, so I decided to go over to the hut at Elphin and have a break, maybe a bit of walking in the local mountains, possible a cave-spotting walk over the Knockan hills – I just needed to get out there.

I wasn’t sure if there would be other GSG members at the hut, but just prior to my leaving home a WhatsApp message let me know that Rich Pease was up for a trip underground that same weekend, and so a brief exchange on WhatsApp produced a plan to meet at Inchnadamph on the Saturday at 10 o’clock for a trip into Cnockers.

On the Friday, after calling at Hugh’s for a natter and a brew in Ullapool, I headed over towards Elphin. It was a cold but otherwise very scenic day, so I decided that I could squeeze in a bit of a ramble on the way. I didn’t want anything too epic, so I chose Cùl Beag, thinking this would be short and sweet. There’s a short stretch of the old A835 just opposite an unmarked lay-by, hidden behind some grassy hillocks, and this led me to the path proper, heading over towards Cùl Beag.

Well this is an interesting path which takes you to a moderately serious burn crossing, which I just about managed without getting drenched, and then, after a fence crossing, it deteriorates into general bog with some beautiful white slabby rock islands. However, as the going got steeper, the land got boggier and rougher, and I found it fairly hard-going until, just short of the lesser summit at Meall Dearg, I looked at my watch and decided that it was time to turn around. Sitting on my bag, looking across to Coigach and the Cromalt Hills, it was definitely worth the effort – even if my level of fitness “aint what it used to be!”

Right enough, the hut was deserted, and a pretty cold night was had – folk need to be warned that the Tesco in Ullapool doesn’t always sell logs – I’ll know to be better prepared in future!

But Saturday was a perfect day for anything. Blue skies, cracking views of improbable mountains, the drive over to Inch was absolutely perfect, and I was just pulling on my oversuit when a white van, with “Assynt Window Cleaning” emblazoned on the side, delivered Inverkirkaig’s finest at bang on 10 o’clock.

Walking up the Traligill valley, chatting about everything and nothing, the views back towards Loch Assynt and forwards towards the flanks of Conival were very pleasant indeed, and we were soon in earshot of the roaring stream from within Uamh an Uisge. Just like the burn crossing of yesterday, the waters of the waterslide were also enhanced by the last of the melting snows.

The trip itself was enjoyable, entertaining and definitely educational. Neither of us had any great experience of the place, each having been there a mere handful of times, and it was good to discuss various points and bounce ideas of route-finding off each other. Reaching Landslip Chamber, Rich mentioned that, last time he’d been there they had done the inward journey via the Rabbit Warren, but we descended to the sump pool and entered the amazing white passageways leading through to crawls to the final series.

“Worm Alley!” cried Rich, indicating the final, earthy passage, and it certainly lived up to its name today, with moist to wet earth well infested with busy little critters. These were signs of recent flooding, we decided, with dripping soil plastered high up on the walls, and even the odd wee plantlet sprouting from below.

We passed a large blue kibble just before we got to the dive line bolts, evidence of previous work on the static sump, or maybe something left in expectation of the proposed dig next Mendip Migration, when hopefully, the level of the static sump will be reduced enough to allow some of us non-divers to see what’s through there?

Returning back towards the entrance, we made a decision to go via the Rabbit Warren. This is an area which does seem to give an indication of the potential of the place. The route, as shown on the survey, makes the Warren look like a straight-forward “follow-your-nose” venture, but the reality is that those unfamiliar with the layout will often pause to consider which is the correct way on. And yet it is doubtful that a wrong turn could get you very far, at least not without a bit of digging or rock surgery.

Once again we saw evidence that the water had recently been quite high, with the last few passageways before our emergence into Landslip being particularly wet. Once out from the confines of the Warren, we followed a lower route, nearer the stream, to the point where the pretty waterfall leaps forth into the darkness and we have to cling on to shiny holds on the left hand side of the streamway.

I don’t know if SCRO has ever had to take a stretcher through to the Grotto from Landslip Chamber, but it would certainly be an interesting exercise, and probably something which ought to be tried before somebody takes a fall in the back of this very popular cave and needs to be rescued.

Back on the surface, with a fine view towards Quinag, we both agreed that it had been a grand trip. For an hour or two’s caving, Cnockers certainly manages to pack in quite a bit of variety!

— Alan